XR650R Dual Sport Project & Travels

Colorado - 1996

On August 24, 1996, I left from Central Illinois to ride in Colorado for 6 days.  The bike was a 1995 BMW R100 GSPD in stock condition, with Parabellum "tall" windshield.  I didn't have a camera at the time so I apologize for the lack of pictures.  My main objective was to get sidetracked by every gravel road and 4X4 pass in sight.

DAY 1:
I departed Loveland via Hwy. 34 at 4 PM, going west over Trail Ridge and Miner passes, with Glenwood Springs as my destination.  On the last day I came back the same way, so more about this later.  From Granby, I headed straight West to Kremmling.  Enroute I passed an intriguing southbound gravel road that heads over Ute pass, but didn't have time to follow it.......maybe next time.

From Kremmling I followed an improved gravel road leading to State Bridge on Hwy. 131.  This was scenic, passing through sagebrush country.  From here it was a straight shot down to I70, then West to Glenwood Springs in the dusk.  I arrived in time to soak in the sulfur pool......aaaahhhhh!  The original plan was to go North from State Bridge to McCoy, then Southwest on gravel roads through Burns to I70, but it was too late.  On my 1993 trip (Yamaha XS750) I had found the road through Burns to be interesting, following the Colorado River through some rather parched, but scenic, terrain.  Keep reading........the story gets better.

DAY 2:
I enjoyed a breakfast burrito, checked oil, gassed up, then headed South on 82 to Basalt, then East up Frying Pan River (paved road) past Ruedi Reservoir.  This curvy road is great, and the valley and reservoir were gorgeous!  About 8 miles past Meridith it turned to gravel, heading up to Ivanhoe lake.  The lake covers an old railbed leading to the now collapsed Carlton rail tunnel.  The railbed was exposed due to low water.  From here, a dirt road (more railbed) circled above the lake, leading to the older Hagerman rail tunnel at a higher elevation.  I followed this right up to the mountain side, where the collapsed tunnel gave mute deposition to a by-gone era.  The last section contained whoops created by washouts of the railbed.  I dropped my saddlebags before this, but it turned out to be unnecessary.

From there I doubled back past Ivanhoe, then took a gravel turn-off to the North, which led over Hagerman Pass to Leadville.  The pass was easily GS'able; a good introduction to unkept roads for the novice.  It contained one short water crossing.  The view on the way up was outstanding!  After a meal in Leadville, it was time to head South to Buena Vista, then West over Cottonwood pass to Taylor Reservoir.  The best features of Cottonwood Pass, I think, are the paved, high-speed sweepers leading to the summit; however, the western descent was dusty, gravel washboard.  You may have to inventory your teeth after this section, but it could be an excellent way to remove posterior cellulite!  From here I skirted the reservoir and headed down Taylor Creek road, passing campers and collecting bugs on the way to Almont.  The night was spent in Gunnison.  They serve good "mexican" omlets at the W Cafe. 

DAY 3:
Now the real fun begins!  I headed West on Hwy 50, then turned South on 149 toward Lake City.  My destination was Ouray via Engineer Pass (4X4), but I got sidetracked (remember the objective?).  Shortly after turning onto 149, I noticed a dirt road heading up a tall hill, and decided to investigate.  The final ascent was steeper and rockier than anything I'd yet climbed, so I decided to "initiate" myself on it.  First gear, gass it, bounce all over kingdom come, make it to the top, enjoy the view, cool off, turn around, bounce back down.  I was mildly proud of myself.  By the end of the week this would seem like a Sunday putt!

A few miles further South I see a sign saying "Powderhorn", down a gravel road to the left.  I follow it, thinking it will lead to a ski area.  The "town" was so small I cruised right through without knowing it.  No matter.  The road was an easy, graded putt, following Cebolla Creek South to a fork, then West, dumping into 149 just North of Slumgullion Pass.  VERY NICE road.....passable on a Gold Wing, in my opinion.  On the way I explored a small dirt road to the East, leading up Las Pinos Creek to a low pass.  On the way up Pinos I disturbed three female mulies crossing the road.  A fourth stood 30 yards into the woods, waiting.  I killed my engine and also waited, but the mulie outlasted my patience.  On the road into Lake City I passed another R100 GSPD rider, the only one I saw on this trip!  I quickly reversed and caught up with him, and we compared notes.  His was decked out with some nice accessories, including an oil filler plug that doubled as a temperature gauge, and the Euro-switch conversion.  Good stuff for off-road.

At Lake City I asked advice about Engineer Pass, then started out for Ouray.  Before departing I called the motel in Ouray.  If I killed myself, someone would know where to retrieve my body.  Satisfied, I ascended West up Henson Creek, then peeled off onto the pass road.  About Engineer I can only say, DO IT!  The pass is a mind blower, not challenging, but definitely a jeep road.  At the top it seemed like I could see the entire San Juans!  The descent to Ouray was BUMPY, full of rock steps and loose shale.  This is where I learned how to descend.  Keep the shoulders, arms, and hands loose, balance the weight back on the pegs, stand when necessary, rely mainly on engine compression, use occasional light braking or power, and RIDE IT LIKE A HORSE.....eeehaaa!  It was three hours from Lake City to Ouray.  On the way up I passed through a herd of sheep.  I thought I saw a sign for the sheep.  This was so they'd know where to stand, ostensively.  On the way down I toured an old mining site, complete with boilers, water tanks, and a massive rock crusher (possibly the London Mine).

DAY 4:
See the separate Black Bear Road! - 1996 trip report.

DAY 5:
I was ready for something tame after day 4, and I needed to be in Buena Vista on Saturday to meet a friend.  After breakfast and coffee I headed for my bike.  A BMW R1100 RS with Illinois plate, blue, complete with rider, was parked next to it.  More note comparing.  The rider had completed two of Reg Pridmore's "Class" training sessions, both at Elkhart, one with a Ducati, the other with the RS.  If I remember correctly, the RS was preferred.  I want one, I thought.  Several months after that I bought a 1996 Ducati 900 SS/SP.  It was exciting, but I guess cruisers and dual-sports are my true love.  I sold my Ducati in 2003.

I said goodbye to Ouray and headed North on 550, then branched East on a gravel road just past Ridgeway.  The road wound through pasture and hill, past Cow Creek (which didn't have any cows), then ascended up and over Owl Creek pass.  Most of the pass was wooded, and seemed to circle around a prominent obelisk capping an isolated peak.  I later identified it as Chimney Rock.  This gave way to a series of cliffs topped with sharp dikes, then descended into the long Cimarron Creek valley.  Near Cimarron Ranch the road gained a pea-gravel surface, on which I was forced to ride for 10 slow miles.  I've traveled on lots of gravel and crushed rock, but I swear, this stuff was marbles!

Finally the road dumped into Hwy 50, and I headed for my favorite street ride in Colorado, Hwy 92.......the Northwest rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison.  If you haven't tried this road, you must.  From Hwy 50 to where it turns North toward Crawford, it is squiggly paradise!  Unfortunately it had just been resurfaced, and gravel held my speed down.  Turning back, I continued through Gunnison, then turned North at Parlin to check out Cumberland Pass.  This scenic gravel road goes through the rustic town of Tincup, connecting with Cottonwood Pass at Taylor Lake Reservoir.  Definitely a nice ride.  On the way I explored an old narrow-gauge railbed to a blocked tunnel East of Pitkin.  From this little diversion, one gains an excellent understanding of what narrow gauge equipment could do in mountainous terrain.

A 4X4 pass also brances off this road, crossing the divide to the ghost town of St. Elmo.  It was full of softball-sized rocks with rounded profiles.  I decided to endure the washboard of Cottonwood Pass instead.  This time, every Tom, Dick, and Harry was heading West with a camper or boat.  I rode in a constant cloud of dust until reaching pavement.  The Chi family runs a decent Chinese restaurant in Buena Vista.  If you like Chinese food, I recommend it.  The evening was concluded with a soak in the Mount Princeton Hot Spring, 8 miles South, which stays open 'till 11 PM.

DAY 6:
At 9 AM I was greeted by the honk of a 1995 BMW R1100 GS, riden by email friend Howard.  Howard had ridden a considerable distance to join me for my last day's ride.  We compared bikes and gear, ate an excellent breakfast, then headed North on Hwy 285 to do Weston Pass.  This mildly scenic gravel road was tame most of the way, but got bumpy at the higher elevations.  A blast up a rocky hillside and through a sloshy mudhole (I went around, he went through), puncuated the ride.

At Leadville we relaxed, then briefly got lost trying to find the way to Mosquito Pass, which we intended to ride over to Alma.  A cruise East out 6th Street eventually led past old mining sites to the pass road.  On the map the road was represented the same way as Hagerman Pass, but it was much rougher.  In fact, it was paved with softball- and kittenball-sized rocks.  We blasted up it for a half-mile, then turned back, not wanting to shake ourselves and our bikes to pieces over the 8-mile distance.  It was here that I dumped my bike again while turning around, this time on the right side.  With Howie's help the bike was righted, and we bounced down the hill again.  I've since figured out that it was a creek bed, and it doesn't last for the entire pass.

Taking the scenic route over Fremont Pass to I70 and Frisco, we encountered an R1100 R rider while relaxing on the main drag.  About-face, followed by more note comparing.  The "R" bike had aftermarket pipes, adding a distinctive growl to the note.  Very nice.  We cruised out of town past Dillon Reservoir, then headed up Loveland Pass.  At this point, Howard, who had owned sport bikes, taught me a lesson about speed on tight roads.  Lets just say I did not reach the summit first!  We relaxed, talked about shooting rockets into snow piles, then headed down and rode East on I70.  We parted at Hwy 40.  Thanks for a great day, Howie!

Heading North on 40 into Winter Park, I stopped at an outdoor store to inquire about Rollins Pass.  The idea was to cross the divide here, then head North on 72 and 7 into Estes Park.  I surmised from my advisor that this road, like Mosquito Pass, is of the softball/kittenball variety.  I opted out an decided to follow Trail Ridge Road to Estes Park.  On the way up Hwy 34 on the West ascent, I learned what auto tourists do when they see an elk in a pasture.  They stop dead in the middle of the road!  The elk themselves do the same thing, except nobody thought to provide them with lights.  Pay attention to those speed limits at dusk, I reminded myself.  The sun sank before I could reach the summit, and I slowly negotiated much of the pass in darkness.  I rather enjoyed it.

A fitting end to a great trip, I thought.